Why is buying a motorhome so stressful?

[T1 Terry]

T1, I was just gunna ask you about the jab, but it became self explanatory as the post went on.
I hope the weather cools down a bit so you can get your work done. Don't you just hate it when you have to fix up someone else's poor work practise before you can do what you originally wanted to.

I'm dirty on myself for being influenced by Margaret's rose coloured glasses when she looked at it, but the owner did an excellent job of "explaining every fault" yet glossing over the major ones, and making sure it was never in the rain .... but I did see the tell-tale rust dribbles appearing in certain places, it took the rain to highlight the problem.

T1 Terry

[supersparky]

At least, you will finish up with a nice vehicle that you can do a bit of wandering about, knowing that it won't give you too much grief as you wander about.
Thats one of the reasons we bought the Winny. We were well aware of the inherent faults that they have. The gas fridge is now number one on our hit list.

[T1 Terry]

Some pics of the roof rust:

Roof rust water leak problems.jpg
Doesn't look like much

Roof rust water leak problems 2.jpg
Dig a bit deeper .... ummm....

Roof rust water leak problems 3.jpg
FFS, but it's mostly surface rust, a few holes towards the edge and possibly more rust further up under the fibreglass, but if I'm going to have the bus on the road by Tuesday for our trip to N Hill to look at the house our friend is looking at buying, any further investigation will have to wait.




T1 Terry

The saga continues:

rust exposed and phosphoric acid treated.jpg

Rust exposed under fibreglass and phosphoric acid treated

rust exposed and phosphoric acid treated 2.jpg

More rust exposed and the evidence of the stellar welding work .... who would have thought that water would enter through a top class join like that?

fishoil diesel mix applied.jpg

Sprayed the first half of the roof with the fishoil/diesel mix ... and the Jimny, and the shed and ..... if the sun isn't melting the flesh off, the wind is trying to carry you to another post code ....

T1 Terry

[T1 Terry]

Reconfiguring a 520Ah 3v battery into a 260Ah 6v battery:

520Ah 3 v battery.jpg

260Ah 6v battery on charge.jpg

I'll build 4 of these, connect them in series to build a 24v battery

T1 Terry

The electrics:

Electrics compartment.jpg

Somehow, I have to fit 260Ah @ 24v and 130Ah @ 12v and a 24v 5000va inverter in there ... and still have the pass through boot area for the awning poles and other stuff

12v 360Ah lead acid.jpg

These will come out, the white tank behind is grey water, so that can't be moved

some electrics to sort.jpg

I have to make a 12v system for the electric already installed, plus a 24v system for the inverter and vehicle start/electrics

some electrics to sort 2.jpg

I'm guessing this will become redundant, but may need to rethink that for the 12v system back up

some electrics to sort 3.jpg

Power cables from the generator run up through here, plus cables to the 12v charger power point, and across and up through the floor for the kitchen and stove power points ...... I just need to insert the inverter in there somewhere

Then, of course, there are multiple boxes of grey water hose, fresh water hose, 15 amp lead, awning mats .... and some stuff I'm yet to identify .... there is ewven a hand tyre pump .... like ya gunna pump one of those tyres up with a hand pump

T1 Terry

[Noggins]

Then, of course, there are multiple boxes of grey water hose, fresh water hose, 15 amp lead, awning mats .... and some stuff I'm yet to identify .... there is ewven a hand tyre pump .... like ya gunna pump one of those tyres up with a hand pump

T1 Terry
[/quote]
Mate when you're on the side of the road and having fixed the tyre with a new tube and sleeve insert to get you to the nearest place to replace the buggered tyres a hand pump is a blessing.
The compressor that was part of the work vehicle shit itself after about 1 minute of running and had just enough to expand the tube in the tyre.
Roadside tyre repairs in 36-degree heat aint fun !!!
Believe me. been there, done that. I almost (And I said ALMOST ) kissed the 4WD bloke that stopped and offered the use of his compressor.
After that, a NEW diesel motored compressor was fitted to the work truck as soon as I got back home.


Ron

P.S. As I did a lot of outback work in NSW and QLD /FNQ I carried 2 spare tubes and at least 3 inner tyre sleeves of different lengths.
I just didn't count on the compressor having a seizure and the piston exiting the motor crankcase.

[T1 Terry]

Fortunately, I have both an Ozito battery powered compressor, and the bus has a compressor for the brake and clutch assist, so the hand pump just isn't gunna be part of spares list .... and, they are tubeless tyres, if the bead lets go, it might be the wheel off and the LPG bead popping method used drastic I know, but better than being stuck out in the wilds .....

T1 Terry

[T1 Terry]

Applied the Tectyl 506 across the metal roof, over the top of the fishoil .... what an amazing product from a pressure pack tin. It went on easy enough, remained a sort of liquid long enough to seep into all the gaps, then set like wax ...... the fishoil is now sealed in on the metal and the whole lot is waterproof coated. Margaret is now off to Mt Barker to get a piece of aluminium flat sheet cut so I can slide it under the fibreglass front and bring it all the way back to overlap where the steel roof starts .... should be an interesting exercise, apply sealant to the structural roof section, thick enough to fill in the voids, then on the upper edge of the aluminium so it seals the fibreglass to the aluminium, then fold that down over the goop on the structural part, apply more glue at the metal roof part to provide an insulating lay to avoid any electrolytic reaction between the two dissimilar metals, then hold it all in place till the glue dries
That will only leave rolling the edges to meet the body and glueing that .... haven't come up with a plan on how to hold that in place while the glue dries ..... nor do I have the time frame ..... might need to cut pieces for each side to slip in under the roof sheet and against the body panel .... if there is such a thing under the 1" thick bog

T1 Terry

[T1 Terry]

Ummm.... A slight 'addendum' to the previous post, Tectyl 506 dried to a wax finish below roughly 25*C, under the hot Mannum sun, it has reverted to a runny substance, near impossible to lay a coating of Dicor over ... and resulting in the whole lot sliding down the side of the roof
Recommend working with a Tectyl 506 coated surface at below 25*C

T1 Terry

[T1 Terry]

No idea what happened then, 'puter lost the lot ... try again.

One side of the roof is gooped up and the aluminium sheet attached, now for the drivers side. Some photos to give you an idea just how poorly the roof fix was thought through previously:

roof repair rh side 3.jpg

4 tubes of goop in there so far, just for this side to fill in the gap

roof repair rh side 2.jpg

A poor photo but a rough idea of how thick the goop is ... 15mm

roof repair rh side.jpg

This is the gap down the side, the fibreglass was not actually attached to the steel plate, the water was running behind the slab of fibreglass and the rust scale can be seen. Also, the 15mm plus gap towards the rear between the added plate and the steel roof, nothing in there at all to seal that .....

T1 Terry

[Dot]

Glad you know what is happening there cuz I don't, Will you be off tomorrow??