Our "New to Us" Winnie

[jon_d]

Whisper to it.

Rocking back and forwards on it. Mirco movements to break the rust.

[T1 Terry]

Much easier to snap them off, they are only a rusty nut and bolt affair.

Fortunately, there was short break in the wind and rain and

Winnie water pump replacement 4.jpg

Winnie has had a frontal lobotomy .... or actually, the front has been lobed off .....

I was surprised just how heavy it was, heavier than the Bullbar .... but, taking Jon's advice, it was a good time to put the tools away and head for the shower and then a nap

It is cold and raining now Don't ya just love springtime ......

T1 Terry

[supersparky]

Geez Terry, you have heaps of room now. Do you have to remove the trans cooler, airco stuff and radiator from the front, or can you just drop the radiator down now? How would you access truck battery without taking front off, if you had flat batt?
I'm glad Mr Winnebago put a lot of thought into preventative maintenance.

[Newcastle George]

I'm glad I bought a Bedford.

George

[jon_d]

So, time to do some preventive maintenance.

New starter, fix the fraid cool hose, and a few things.
Take lots of photos for when you need to reach up inside 2-3 years later.

Well done Terry. One toe at a time. Wander out a bit later and think about tomorrow's toe.

[BruceS]

First question is 'does the engine driven air conditioner work' (before you started this job)
Usually the radiator can be removed without degassing & removal of condenser.

[jon_d]

I'm glad I bought a Bedford.

George

George, the same applies for us. You have to take the front off to get to the radiator and anything behind it.

I can see, the engine oil cooler, transmission cooler, AC evaporator, and then the radiator. Yuckooo.

[T1 Terry]

Dave, the radiator goes from where that black round frame disappears through the deflector strip, just under the air intake pipe, down to behind the power steering oil cooler at the very bottom of the photo. That frame under it doesn't come out, it's part of the chassis.

The 12v start battery is sort of accessible leaning through the hole where the front access door opens ...... but I'd need to find someone with a real strong back to lift it out and new one back in .... it will be deleted before reassembly, run it all of the house batteries the way the Mazda was set up.

Jon, that hose that looks like it's fraid, that is that mesh protector over the hose, needs a bit of tape on it to stop it from unravelling further.

You can see where I ran to new heater hoses through the thermo-wrap to protect them and joined them into the heater tap and a joiner that was already in the hose. I might look at getting access to the heater from inside when the engine cover is off and the radiator is out and replace those sections of the hose as well .....

Yes Bruce, the air con works, but the auto climate control module keeps turning the system off, yet another annoying thing to sort.

I will swing the air con condenser out of the way, look at what is involved in removing the trans oil cooler pipes, particularly the solid one that runs under the cooler and disappears up the driver's side somewhere .... the power steering cooler will be easy enough to remove if I need to, but I have no idea yet how I'm going to get that monster of a radiator out of there, I think I'll have to cut the lower fibreglass section of the access door hole to make enough room for it to come through .... all might be clearer once the big U shaped tube frame the aircleaner mounts onto ..... I'm going to allocate a day to actually clear enough room to unbolt the radiator .... might even get the two parts of the inside engine cover out tomorrow as well, but that will be a bonus job if the other parts aren't as bad as the look.

The lower radiator hose that includes the restrictor for the oil cooler water diversion and both of those hoses, and the serpentine belt and the idler pulleys if I can source them locally .....

The starter is easy to get to Jon .... the alternator, not so much ..... If it was the later 7.3 ltr V8, the starter is under the intake manifold and they are direct cyl injection, so the intake ports need to be cleaned regularly, but the injectors, high pressure fuel rails and high pressure pumps, are also all under the intake manifold, along with the snout that is the back of the water pump where the thermostat lives ..... so, it could be worse

Yes George, the Bedford was heaps easier, even easier with the 351 Cleveland in the rear

Some US RV mechanic estimated 30 hrs labour to change the water pump in the US version, and the top part of the fibreglass comes out in one of those

T1 Terry

[T1 Terry]

I'm glad I bought a Bedford.

George

George, the same applies for us. You have to take the front off to get to the radiator and anything behind it.

I can see, the engine oil cooler, transmission cooler, AC evaporator, and then the radiator. Yuckooo.

That cooler with the big rigid pipes in the transmission cooler, the engine oil cooler is under the oil filter .....

If you look closely, under the power steering cooler, there are 2 small steel pipes with wire spiralled around them .... that is the brake fluid cooler They run an electric constant high pressure pump thar doubles as the ABS, no vacuum power booster or air compressor ..... 25 yrs ago, there are a lot of things in there that are well ahead of their time ......

T1 Terry

[T1 Terry]

I got 30 mins maybe the first attempt, 5 mins the second attempt, maybe 1min the third attempt, this time 30 secs max ...... 36.5 mins work time between rain events .... it has just gone from heavy rain to nothing ..... I doubt I'll get the door open this time

I think I'll call today a lost cause, cause, no doubt, if I go for a nap, the sun will come out

T1 Terry