inverter air con

[JohnM]

I have given up on megafuses as well as breakers for all larger loads, and have run over to this type of fuse they are available from Jaycar (also from supercheap for considerably more) Jaycar also stock the glass fuses, and a larger version which I have in line with the inverter, This particular one is a 50A in the solar panel inlet line, before the regulator.
I have had too much trouble with blade type fuses and don't really trust breakers particularly the self resetting type.

[Kappy]

On the weekend I ran a large TV, all the house lights and then ran the microwave for a few minutes.( Rated about 800 watts)

after about 2 minutes the power went off at the microwave and TV for about 5 seconds and then returned.

Will have to read up on my Solar Charge Regulator and see if I can glean some more info.

Apparently can run tests with that or see whats happening when the power fluctuates.

Gotta do it single handed some looks like a slow process.

[T1 Terry]

I have given up on megafuses as well as breakers for all larger loads, and have run over to this type of fuse they are available from Jaycar (also from supercheap for considerably more) Jaycar also stock the glass fuses, and a larger version which I have in line with the inverter, This particular one is a 50A in the solar panel inlet line, before the regulator.
I have had too much trouble with blade type fuses and don't really trust breakers particularly the self resetting type.

Mega fuses or maxi fuses John? Mega fuses are bolt on and maxi fuses are just oversized blade fuses and suffer the same problems as blade fuses, bad connections. We gave up on the round glass fuses after a few melted the plastic body due to bad contact between the fuse and holder, so now we are using mini ANL fuses or Midi fuses, only difference is the Midi fuse is a full circle type bolt on connection and mini ANL as the forked connection, they are both the same bolt pattern (unusual I know, must have been an accident). Standard ANL fuses are good for up to 250 amps max. after that the plastic case melts and smokes before the fuse blows because of the heat generated where the mega fuses are filled with a non-conducting material that quenches any arc over, that is the part that starts fires.

T1 Terry

[JohnM]

Hi T1 I was in fact referring to maxi fuses, (the blade type) but have had no problems with these though I will admit that I use a larger unit for the inverter.

[Kappy]

Hi Still mulling over my electrical issues.

Now out of the blue, the RCD for the electric hot plate on my cook top now trips for no apparent reason, not even switched on.

My inverter is a Powertech 2000 and guess I need to test its operation, but need to find out how to test it in a way I can understand.

Everything I have looked at so in all talking left handed to me.

Wonda how good this may be in case http://www.inverter.com.au/8000-watt-su ... inv4000a12.

Can I please get some sound advice on how I can load test my batteries.

[dapope]

The inverter is a modified sine wave.....I wouldnt touch it.
T1 will hopefully be along in the morning and help re the load testing.
Your powertech should be good enough unless you are trying to run everything at once.
Just had a reread to try to work out your battery bank. Looks like you have 200ah @24v. Depending how the batteries are wired may give us some clues. Can you get a photo of your battery bank up? Unfortunately I am in Karratha, and no plans on coming down to Perth till the end of Feb, and then we are off overseas, otherwise I would have come down for a look. I ran really heavy wire to the inverter direct from the batterys to stop voltage sag, plus the lithium, so they can take a flogging..

[jon_d]

Kappy,

I sent you a PM about basic electricals. Did you get it?

Also, the safest way to test an inverter is to use a basic oil heater. No motors, no electronics to worry about

http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_from ... acat=41987

Choose one that is just under the maximum output of the inverter.

[T1 Terry]

Hi Still mulling over my electrical issues.

Now out of the blue, the RCD for the electric hot plate on my cook top now trips for no apparent reason, not even switched on.

My inverter is a Powertech 2000 and guess I need to test its operation, but need to find out how to test it in a way I can understand.

Everything I have looked at so in all talking left handed to me.

Wonda how good this may be in case http://www.inverter.com.au/8000-watt-su ... inv4000a12.

Can I please get some sound advice on how I can load test my batteries.

Hi Kappy, this one is cheaper and more likely to do what you need http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NEW-9000W-PE ... SwuR5XPnn8 the down side is you need to turn it off when not in use as they waste a lot when turned on but nothing plugged in or even on very light loads like phone charging etc. For jobs like that either a small inverter or a 24v USB charger, lots to choose from in this listing http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_from ... r&_sacat=0 but if you have a computer or other gear that the only option is a 240v mains charger look for a small inverter that also has a USB port so you can kill the two birds with the one rock.
Load testing could be done with your hot plate, just check out the label plate on the back to see how many amps @ 240vac or watts, just multiply the amps by the volts and that will give you watts. If the hotplate has the same or less power requirements as the inverter, plug the hot plate into the inverter and turn it on and measure the voltage, if the battery voltage drops below 10.5v the inverter will turn off and you will know the batteries can't handle full load. Next test is light globes, the old filament type, lots of desk lamps borrowed or what ever and turn them on one at a time to see just how many watts the battery can deliver before the voltage drops much below 12v. Basic calculation is the light bulb watts added together and multiplied by 1.1 to add in the waste power used by the inverter and that is how much the battery can deliver, the total of the light bulbs is as much as you can power via an inverter. It could delver more on a short term load from the battery but the capacity will fall away very quickly. This is where lithium batteries come into play, they don't drop their voltage by near as much as the lead acid batteries do, so the same capacity can run a lot more gear without suffering loss of capacity, but naturally once it's used it's gone and you need to recharge it.

T1 Terry

[Kappy]

Kappy,

I sent you a PM about basic electricals. Did you get it?

Also, the safest way to test an inverter is to use a basic oil heater. No motors, no electronics to worry about

http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_from ... acat=41987

Choose one that is just under the maximum output of the inverter.

Yes Thanks Jon,

I have both Collyn's book, still not that clear to me.

I'm more a watch and see person.

[Kappy]

Bought myself a reasonable quality Multimeter on the weekend, well better than my $10 supercheap special.

Anyway had a lay this morning, turn off everything else and connected a 1400 watt old style toaster to inverter.

Prior to turning toaster on voltage showing 26 volts as close to inverter inlet as I could get.

With toaster on the voltage started dropping slowly by about .02 to .2 volts.

Stilling showing around 23 voits when breaker tripped and instantly showed 7 . something Volts as it tripped.

Not sure if I'm doing correctly and what that indicates,whether I need batteries or new inverter either way it will cost $$$$$$$$

If I'm gonna spend money I may as well upgrade with enough power to be off the grid as long as possible. So welcome suggestions.

I currently have 3 Suntech 200 watt panels with a total 600 watts and a 2000 watt 24 volt inverter and 4 100 ah AMG batteries.

I heard somewhere if I add panels of a lesser wattage then the 200 watt panels are reduced to the lowest size pane any thoughts on that.

I'm a little hamstrung by isolation so advise in greatly appreciated.