Bob K's HINO RB

[BruceS]

I bought this one but haven't used it yet!
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-Right-An ... 1747388109?

[T1 Terry]

I bought this one but haven't used it yet!
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-Right-An ... 1747388109?

The 500RPM limit makes it very slow for drilling, I have a right angle air drill with reverse button but the limit is 3/8" in the chuck. The drill shank could be machined down to fit but the drill itself doesn't have a lot of grunt so might not be able to actually cut any metal if a bigger drill bit was used.

T1 Terry

[T1 Terry]

Bob you can get short drill bits that are double ended and sold for pop riveting jobs. Usually a pack of 5 or so.

The have a bad habbit of spinning in the chuck and drilling up through the hex head screw that locks the chuck onto the spindle. Not only won't the drill bit come out of the chuck but the hex socket screw no longer has anything to hold onto so you can't get the chuck off the drill. I buy packs of the common sized drill bits, cut them off to length with an angle grinder and resharpen them. If you can get your hands on them, left hand twist drill bits in a drill with a reverse function are great for getting bolts out that aren't actually jammed in the hole, just snapped off. As the drill works through the centre of the stud the broken piece starts to loosen in the thread, the drill bit spinning in the direction to unscrew the broken stud gets it out rather than driving it deeper and tighter into the hole.

T1 Terry

[jon_d]

Bruce,

And I reckon the pop rviet double ended drills are a better steel too. They seem to stay sharper longer.

[bobk]

Because of my (silly) decision to leave the manifold in place, I needed a long drill (about 110mm) to get past the manifold ie the body of the chuck was hitting the manifold. I have double ended drills and agree they seem to last very well but not suited on this task. The ebay model looks much nicer than the thing I bought and the price better too. Unfortunately too late though. At happy hour tonight my neighbor advised me he had a right angle drive air drill. Grrr, why didn't I ask around? Anyway the second broken stud is out. Had a bit more difficulty due to my guide not sitting correctly and drilled off centre. Managed to recover though and all's good. Next job is manifold off, remove and replace all other studs and refit manifold. I was going to replace all the nuts as well but at 10 dollars each from CMI it's not happening.
Something that puzzled me from when I first saw the bus is that it appears (is) lower at the front than at the back. I also puzzled about the (seemingly) large compressor that does nothing more than provide air for opening and closing the door. Well among other things that I have found is some wiring that has been cut off near the compressor and a bit of thin plastic pressure tube similar to that once was used for pump-up shockers on cars. Perhaps this bus once had a kneeling facility. Not sure how to find out about this with my vehicle but if any forumites could shed some light on how 'kneeling' is normally achieved I would be happy.
BobK

[Dot]

Bob our nuts were around the $2.30 mark each, studs $4.00, gaskets around the $3.00 mark. Give Jacko a call

[jon_d]

photo's Bob.... always photos.

The tube will be the nylon tube from the compressor to where-ever.

[SteveW]

For a ha'peth of tar .....

[bobk]

Aaah Dot, when you've got so much money it doesn't matter what you spend......pigs f'arce. I went to Japanese Trucks at Lonsdale for the steering box and the bloke there said his son had an outlet just near Motor Reg. 'We Know Diesels' or something like. Anyway I went there to see if I could do better than CMI but the only information he had related to trucks. When he did a search on the VIN for the bus, the computer wouldn't accept it as there were not enough digits in the number and the engine type number WO6D meant nothing so CMI got paid. Today I completed removing the manifold and the studs (found a third one broken). Have to wait till Monday to get a plug tap to dress the hole threads and then put all back together in reverse order. Engineering question, is it worth putting Coppercoat/Neverseize on the studs on re-installation? The unbroken studs actually came out easily using the two nut method and it was interesting to note the blue hue to some of the studs.
BobK

[Dot]

The 6 is cylinders and the D is Diesel I reckon. Ring Shane for info he said he is happy to help.