Bernie and Carols Isuzu fit out.

[jon_d]

Hi Bernie,

Yes, I'll scan them.

To me, it looks like you can take it off from the back. and then align the pump and crank though the timing marks and shaft keys.

jd

[BernieQ2]

Its not the injector pump I need off its the compressor .
Thanks .
Bernie .

[BruceS]

I can see what you are saying Bernie.
You want to avoid touching the injector pump?
Leave that where it is, remove the front cover & just pull it forward with the compressor attached & replace the compressor to the front cover & shove it back on.
Are there threads in the holes on that plate on the front of the compressor or just holes?

I'd be more inclined to remove the Inj pump, then the compressor, swap the gear to the new one & put back in reverse order.
BUT, if there is threads in them holes & the bolts ARE in from inside the front cover then you MUST do it your way.
I can't believe it is that way though. Usually "attachments" are removable one by one.
Threads or not?

[T1 Terry]

Hopefully I've caught you before you start the disassembly process. I've done one and swore if I could find a better method I'd never do a second one institute. the easiest by far is to remove the head, barrel and conrod from the existing compressor and replace with the components of the new compressor if the crankshaft is not damaged. You will need new gaskets but that is not a big issue.
If you do replace the whole unit you will have to go through the whole injector timing process, probably twice. The keyway that positions the compressor on the gear and from a rather vague memory the injector pump drive are not precision machined like the more modern stuff, even worse if the compressor is after market, so just aligning the timing marks and gears will not necessarily get the injector timing exactly correct, few degrees either way really effects the performance.

T1 Terry

[jon_d]

Bernie reading though the manual, the crankshaft nut, 54mm needs to be tightened upto 434 lb/ft or 588N-m

[BernieQ2]

Well what a job getting the radiator out , it had more nooks and crannies then my first girlfriend .
Took all up 6 hours to remove I found only two things that were not actually connected to the radiator...the dip stick and the toilet cassette.. Well that's how it seemed . Most of the time I could only get one hand in with a spanner to undo bolts .

Thanks Terry that is still a option doing as you suggest , one thing CAN you get the conrod out??? I have tried removing the head on the new compressor but what ever glue they use wont budge . The harmonic balancer has to come off ( thanks Jon ) as there is a oil leak that needs fixing was pointed out to me at the last annual inspection . also two of the covers on the camshaft are weeping and will need replacing as well . They are normally covered by engine side covers on my bus they have been removed so one can get to other stuff .

My arms feel like shitt Carol has rubbed danka stuff into my aches especially my neck .
So now I can degrease the engine to look at what troubles lay ahead .
Took a pic of the fruits of my troubles today . More pics tomorrow .
588nootinwhatsits...might get Carol to do it up Jon ?

Welcome home Terry .

Bernie .

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[BruceS]

Good job! You got more done today than me Bernie!
Can you amuse me & take a photo of the under side of that new compressor? Does it have a sump on it?
Some wild weather here!

[jon_d]

Bernie,

588 thingames = a really big bar.

My arms feel like shitt

I guess the canister really was connected.

Can you pop the cir-clips of the gudgeon and remove the piston? The question then is whether the gudgeon diameters are the same.

[BernieQ2]

No sump Bruce but here are some pics . You can see the threads in the hole .
I removed 27 bolts to remove the radiator not all to do with said radiator but were hindering the removal process .
Bernie .

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[T1 Terry]

Bugga, that'd be right, yet another version of compressor on the same basic engine and this one has no sump. These require the head and cyl to be at least raised from the crankcase body so the 2 conrod bolts can be accessed. Does the compressor on the engine at the moment have a sump on it?
The gear will come out through the hole in the timing cover but then how do you get the nut undone? Once you find top dead centre with the valves on number 6 cyl rocking remove the timing cover... another mass of bolts often with nuts on the other end almost impossible to get a spanner on, then check where each gear meshes with the next and see if there is an identifying mark on a tooth that lines up with a spot between 2 teeth on the matching gear. If you find them clean the spots up and take a photo so you know which way up each gear goes and in which position, the Japanese have a nasty habit of using the same gear for different motors and have multiple marks on both sides of the gear, real messy if you get it wrong on reassembly and if you don't get the same gear facing the right way around in the same spot as it came out the timing gears become very noisy and wear rapidly.
Now you can get physical and attempt to undo that nut of the front of the compressor, the engine will certainly turn so you will need an assistant to wedge a flat blade screw driver in the ring gear teeth on the flywheel.
Good luck and keep us updated, not sure if I'd swap jobs with you and let you sort this Mazda heater problem instead, at least you have a bit of room to move around in