Red light

Discussion about any electrical topic except 240 volts. Solar, converters, inverters, lights, battery chargers, etc
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Re: Red light

Post by T1 Terry »

Mrcoolabah1au wrote: ↑Thu Mar 11, 2021 11:25 am Will this fix my red light problem once I get around to pulling out the old one πŸ€”
we use these inverters a lot Wayne and they have been very reliable. Keep in mind they are only 2000w not 2400w or 3,000w, so be careful not to overload it. Just for reference, a 10 amp powerpoint handles 2400w, so make sure you check the label om each appliance before you plug it in ... It will scream at you if you overload it but if you do it too many times of for long periods, the smoke will come out and Projecta don't do replacement smoke and smoke install kits ....
Also, be very careful you only have the 240vac mains coming in the input side and the 240vac mains or generator are not connected to anywhere in the wiring inside the bus where that part of the system wires into the inverter 240v output side .... I have one here that was used once and had been wired incorrectly and a lot of the smoke came out destroying the circuit board in the process, no way to repair it ...... Projecta do not cover such things under their warranty .....

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Re: Red light

Post by Mrcoolabah1au »

No it ran the toaster and the sandwich maker try the microwave it turn on πŸ€”
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Re: Red light

Post by BruceS »

I guess that was an answer to my question Wayne? Maybe there is nothing wrong with it other than you are trying to run too much with it? The microwave would probably be needing at least a 3000w inverter.
If you look on the rear of the microwave you should see it's 'rating'.
We have a chap here in the marina trying to run everything off of a couple of 12v batteries & can't understand how come others can do it OK.
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Re: Red light

Post by T1 Terry »

Mrcoolabah1au wrote: ↑Thu Mar 11, 2021 12:46 pm No it ran the toaster and the sandwich maker try the microwave it turn on πŸ€”
What else was turned on at the same time? Generally a microwave draws 2400w, less for the smaller output ones and the new inverter type if you don't try for full power ..... If something else like the fridge or a battery charger or the coffee machine was running at the same time it would have tripped the overload and that might be a red light but it shoul say "overload" either on the inverter or in the instruction book .... you know, that thing you read when all else has failed ;) :lol:

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Re: Red light

Post by Mrcoolabah1au »

Ha ha do eBay things have instructions πŸ€”πŸ€”πŸ€”
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Re: Red light

Post by Mrcoolabah1au »

What this in the picture it look like a shunt very loose πŸ€” will this up set the inverter have taken the old inverter out but can easily put back if needed if I need to get something else will wait till I here from you before putting the new one inπŸ‘
8DDFC929-A7DF-4E2C-9A8D-0B261E6524A5.jpeg
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Re: Red light

Post by pet-els »

Wayne,
I have a 2000W inverter and it will run [not at the same time] Microwave 850W, toaster 850W, kettle 850W, coffee MC 1500W and Washing MC ?W, also my Washing MC [Dometic front loader], small freezer and even my Dometic Harrier a/c for a few hours.

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Re: Red light

Post by supersparky »

Mrcoolabah1au wrote: ↑Thu Mar 11, 2021 4:54 pm What this in the picture it look like a shunt very loose πŸ€”
Wayne, the mounting block on that shunt looks like it is broken. Were any of the cables that went to it loose and caused something to melt?
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Re: Red light

Post by Mrcoolabah1au »

No it looks like only the plastic broken 😞
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Re: Red light

Post by T1 Terry »

Mrcoolabah1au wrote: ↑Thu Mar 11, 2021 4:54 pm What this in the picture it look like a shunt very loose πŸ€” will this up set the inverter have taken the old inverter out but can easily put back if needed if I need to get something else will wait till I here from you before putting the new one inπŸ‘8DDFC929-A7DF-4E2C-9A8D-0B261E6524A5.jpeg
Could it be the 200 amp shunt from the Plasmatronics solar controller? No idea what the heavy red cables mounted with the phillips screws are all about, there are normally a twisted pair of very light gauge cables that run back to the shunt interface black box and it has a telephone type cable plugged into it that runs up to the Plasmatronics controller.

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