Our "New to Us" Winnie

[T1 Terry]

Terry, were you running it without any of the belts connected? Otherwise alternator should charge batts?

No water in it at the moment and last night, there were no tappet covers on it, so about a 30 sec run made quite a mess on the concrete Todays plan is to replace any tired looking hoses and put some radiator cleaner in the system to get the rubbish out the tap water created

T1 Terry

[Dot]

Are those charging poles different power to what a genny puts out???

Either single phase at a much higher rate than a genny, roughly 7 kw continuous, 3 phase at around 22kw and fast DC at 150kwand ultra fast DC at 200kw. It is expected, when the truck EV charging rolls out, around 500kwDC to 800kwDC, or the battery swap method that takes half the time to add 400km of electric fuel to the time taken to add 400kms of diesel.
Generally, the faster the charge, the more expensive, the 7kw is around 25c kwh, the 3 phase 22kw around 33c kwh and the rapid and ultra rapid DC at around 62c kwh, so around $240 to recharge a 400kwh battery and around 2 hrs. So you would only use the ultra rapid DC chargers is you were in a hurry. The cost for the 800kw truck DC charging is as yet an unknown, but estimation are around $1 kwh to $1.20 kwh and this will be via battery to battery charging, the donor battery will most likely be a tired truck battery rebuilt to a higher voltage and recharged via solar or cheap power during the day when the grid actually pays people to take excess grid supply to store in batteries. The aim is to decentralise the load points so wind and solar farms don't have to push the power all the way to the city where it would normally be used, it can be stored in more remote areas and accessed as needed.

T1 Terry

Well I knew that all the time , I was just testing you.

[T1 Terry]

Are those charging poles different power to what a genny puts out???

Either single phase at a much higher rate than a genny, roughly 7 kw continuous, 3 phase at around 22kw and fast DC at 150kwand ultra fast DC at 200kw. It is expected, when the truck EV charging rolls out, around 500kwDC to 800kwDC, or the battery swap method that takes half the time to add 400km of electric fuel to the time taken to add 400kms of diesel.
Generally, the faster the charge, the more expensive, the 7kw is around 25c kwh, the 3 phase 22kw around 33c kwh and the rapid and ultra rapid DC at around 62c kwh, so around $240 to recharge a 400kwh battery and around 2 hrs. So you would only use the ultra rapid DC chargers is you were in a hurry. The cost for the 800kw truck DC charging is as yet an unknown, but estimation are around $1 kwh to $1.20 kwh and this will be via battery to battery charging, the donor battery will most likely be a tired truck battery rebuilt to a higher voltage and recharged via solar or cheap power during the day when the grid actually pays people to take excess grid supply to store in batteries. The aim is to decentralise the load points so wind and solar farms don't have to push the power all the way to the city where it would normally be used, it can be stored in more remote areas and accessed as needed.

T1 Terry

Well I knew that all the time , I was just testing you.

Did I just get a passing vote, or did I get a distinction?

T1 Terry

[T1 Terry]

Terry, were you running it without any of the belts connected? Otherwise alternator should charge batts?

No water in it at the moment and last night, there were no tappet covers on it, so about a 30 sec run made quite a mess on the concrete Todays plan is to replace any tired looking hoses and put some radiator cleaner in the system to get the rubbish out the tap water created

T1 Terry

So far I have removed around 5 mtrs of heater hose that has been in there for a long time, some of it snapped off at the fittings There is a bottom radiator hose that has two heater sized hoses running off it, that go to the oil cooler ... I'm yet to figure out if there is some sort of flow redirection to force the water to go through the oil cooler rather than straight up the much larger hose.

I'm soaking the overflow bottle in a 10% mix of Sulfamic acid in an attempt to clean the rust stain out so it can be seen through again. Tossing up whether to use a Sulfamic acid mix or a citric acid mix to run through the cooling system to try and clean that out, maybe I'll run the Sulfamic first, flush that out, then the Citric acid and leave that in for a while longer. Apparently it is tougher on mild steel but harmless to aluminium alloy, the Sulfamic acid is the other way around, so I don't want to leave it in the system too long and risk the thermostat housing, water pump and heads, but I need something strong enough to remove the crude build up out of the system to open it up to the citric acid to do its thing .... the citric acid looses its effectiveness the more rust it has to dissolve ....

What do members here use to clean a mixed metal cooling system? The Phosphoric acid was brilliant in the Hino, but that was all ferrous metal and copper, no aluminium

T1 Terry

[Dot]

Either single phase at a much higher rate than a genny, roughly 7 kw continuous, 3 phase at around 22kw and fast DC at 150kwand ultra fast DC at 200kw. It is expected, when the truck EV charging rolls out, around 500kwDC to 800kwDC, or the battery swap method that takes half the time to add 400km of electric fuel to the time taken to add 400kms of diesel.
Generally, the faster the charge, the more expensive, the 7kw is around 25c kwh, the 3 phase 22kw around 33c kwh and the rapid and ultra rapid DC at around 62c kwh, so around $240 to recharge a 400kwh battery and around 2 hrs. So you would only use the ultra rapid DC chargers is you were in a hurry. The cost for the 800kw truck DC charging is as yet an unknown, but estimation are around $1 kwh to $1.20 kwh and this will be via battery to battery charging, the donor battery will most likely be a tired truck battery rebuilt to a higher voltage and recharged via solar or cheap power during the day when the grid actually pays people to take excess grid supply to store in batteries. The aim is to decentralise the load points so wind and solar farms don't have to push the power all the way to the city where it would normally be used, it can be stored in more remote areas and accessed as needed.

T1 Terry

Well I knew that all the time , I was just testing you.

Did I just get a passing vote, or did I get a distinction?

T1 Terry

I plead undecided but still a bit confused ( as normal)

[Greynomad]

What do members here use to clean a mixed metal cooling system? The Phosphoric acid was brilliant in the Hino, but that was all ferrous metal and copper, no aluminium

T1 Terry

T1,

Have you considered a toothbrush on the end of some stiff wire?

[T1 Terry]

T1,

Have you considered a toothbrush on the end of some stiff wire?

Is that what you use Ray? We prefer toilet paper for that job ...... but to each their own I guess

T1 Terry

[Greynomad]

No, but you wouldn’t believe what you can achieve with a trimmed down toilet brush!

The toothbrush is reserved for smaller diameter pipes.

[T1 Terry]

The engine is running again. Ran it up to temp, lots of smoke due to the oil in the exhaust from the cyls that weren't running before. That eventually cleared as it came up to operating temp, exhaust sounds different now, a quick snap of the throttle gives rapid response, very happy with the result.
It does rattle, but not near as bad as I expected as the bleed down valves are out of all 20 lifters. I'll run it a few times with radiator flush to try and get that clean, then off with the tappet covers again, check there is still clearance for all the lifters, check the compressions, refit the bleed down valves and put it all back together

After having to sit on the folding camp chairs since the engine work started, it seems the ratty captains chairs aren't quite so bad after all

T1 Terry

[T1 Terry]

A few longer runs today to help with the radiator flushing. First time was water only, up to temp and then flush out the rust coloured mud. Refill and add 2 bottles of Techalloy rad cleaner, says to extend run time to a number of hrs for a very dirty system ..... it gets some what hot inside with no engine covers and the engine running at a fast idle, so maybe multiple runs for 15 mins today and tomorrow, then flush it out and see what it looks like after that.
The Citric acid won't arrive until next mth sometime, so preliminary cleaning now and a full clean with that stuff when it gets here, I can at least replace the crap hoses once it's had this clean out and put the engine covers back on ..... tossing up whether to put the bleed down valves back in the lifters, they quieten down a lot after it has run for a while

T1 Terry