Toad

[TigerMK1]

I finally have my Toad operational. The old truck works very well after we replaced the gearbox and the front brakes & the bearings etc.
I wanted a vehicle that would do the shopping thing and transport my porta bote with the extra bits & motor. Well, not allowed to spend another 30 grand on a suzuki, the Daihatsu seems the go.

Now I need to decide, do I use the override brakes that came with the Hitch & Go or do I use (already have it) ready Brute system that connects the Toads brake including power booster from a blue lead from the MH system. If I go this way I can remove the very heavy override brake tow hitch from the a frame and subsitute a lighter tow hitch.
advise please

[T1 Terry]

Hi Steven,
I'm thinking it's all to do with the way the hitch system was engineered and passed to meet the rego approval. It sounds like you want to mix two different systems, maybe check with the engineer the approved the rig, he will tell you if a variation to the engineering approval is required, and how many $$ he will want to do it

[Wilbor]

I have a Roadmaster Invisibrake and love it. It too uses the vacuum booster on the Suzi and is activated by the brake light circuit. Override brakes are the cheapest option available, certainly not the best, but the cheapest. I don't think there is any decision here, get rid of the override brake and use the superior Ready Brute system you already have.

[SteveW]

However, since the Daihatsu weighs exactly 1000 kg + or - a kilo, and your MH weighs more that 3.5 tonne, you don't need to operate the toad brakes - except, of course, if you drive in NSW. So stay out of NSW and you will be fine. Easier said than done.

[TigerMK1]

Thank you gentlemen for your answers. I will fit the ready brute system as its better to have a superior braking system. I also note with the ready brute you can adjust the bias for the amount of braking required. I can then justify changing the hitch to a full 50mm ball hitch without the weight of the overider brake system. I can see why the elder chap (well older than me) wanted to change to a trailer. The weight of the hitch & Go with the full overide brake system is quite heavy to shift around. I also may be able to sell the override hitch to help with costs

On another note, my ready brute system is the older model that needs a power feed from the MH brake system (via a 3 way switch).
The wizbang replacement was on display at Maryborough. This neat box sits behind the drivers seat, no attachment. Has a lead that plugs into the 12V plug in the toad. Then has an extendable grab hook that grabs the brake pedal. It uses its own computer to decide when and how much brake to apply. It can also decide if the toad has a breakaway. Oh it also has its onboard power if required. Now the good part, I bought my second hand unit for $400. The new wizbang is $1,600 on special.

[TigerMK1]

Well today I have installed the Blue Ox vacumn assist braking system, and it works great on the test button. Now have to run the long blue cable from the motor home brake pedal to the toad connection. At the same time fit the 24V to 12V trailer conversion unit to the motor home. After all this I have sold the hitch & go aframe. Discussions with fellow travellors convinced me in the longer time its too heavy and a bit restricted with set up.
Well evilbay came to the rescue again. A company on the eastern side of the USA was selling a complete new BLUE OX A Frame unit for under AU$600. That included shipping to the agent I use in california. They have charged me another AU$140 to ship to my home address. Very happy, also because what I have seen, the newer Blue Ox a frames use a bolt on toad connection that fits to the bullbar/front steel bumper with high tensile bolts. The Hitch & Go needed welded brackets. Even with the lower AU$ its a bargain.

[Wilbor]

I think there is a reason why hitch n go and every other Australian approved A frame have a bracket attached to the chassis. Do some checking before you connect to the bumper bar, I have no idea what all the rules are across the country but this is one little bit from the Qld rules

The “A”-frame coupling must:
be secured to a substantial body member of the towed vehicle, such as a sub-frame or chassis member. Connection to the towed vehicle’s bumper, suspension or steering components is not permitted, unless approved by the manufacturer of the towed vehicle

[TigerMK1]

I think there is a reason why hitch n go and every other Australian approved A frame have a bracket attached to the chassis. Do some checking before you connect to the bumper bar, I have no idea what all the rules are across the country but this is one little bit from the Qld rules

The “A”-frame coupling must:
be secured to a substantial body member of the towed vehicle, such as a sub-frame or chassis member. Connection to the towed vehicle’s bumper, suspension or steering components is not permitted, unless approved by the manufacturer of the towed vehicle

On my Toad, the bullbar is solid steel mounted to the chassis with 8 high tensile bolts. It is also designed to have a winch attached. I suggest taking it to any engineer would show the bullbar would pull the chassis off the body before it departed the vehicle. I have also seen a alloy bullbar, cut back to a nudge bar that had a ready brute fixed to the nudge bar. It had full engineers approval. I will get approval before towing my Diahatsu.

[Wilbor]

I don’t disagree, but the rules don’t say that, they say "approved by the manufacturer of the towed vehicle"

I have seen a lot of things too that are not legal, just because someone has done something does not make it legal. The legality test really comes into play when something happens, like a crash!!

[TigerMK1]

Thanks for the comments. I am progressing. I bought a 24V to 12V trailer converter. It comes in a alloy box with led indicator lights and 24V in & 12V out suitable for a truck with a trailer. Mounted it and connected it all up. Oops, it has tail lights, brake lights, reversing lights and indictators. No electric brake converter. Suppose all newer trucks (and RV's) have air over to power the rear trailer brakes.

So down to Jcar, 1 24V relay & 15M of cable later, I am almost there with fitting the electric brake to the RV that will be transmitted to the toad. Spent the arvo running the cable under the RV, used to be easier a few years ago. Will fit the relay and associated wiring tomorrow.

I then expect the Blue Ox frame this week. From comments from the seller, it may not include the safety cables, they varie from US state to state.
I have seen nifty coiled safety cables on A frames, any idea where to purchase same?