240v fridge - Samsung, F&P or Hisense?

[freechange]

Putting together some specs for a Coaster fit out.

Thinking I might go for a 240v fridge. Bit over the 12v compressor fridges. Expensive, poor performers and need mothering.

Which 240v brand is proven to be the best option for RV use? Looking at the Samsung, F&P or Hisense?

The Samsung 228L is about $5-600 and I think a Victron 350VA (peak 700 watts) dedicated inverter for $200 should run it.

Coaster will have 700 watts, 2 x 120AH AGMs, or Lithium if I can absorb the info in time.

Anyone have any of these fridges and can offer feedback? Concerned they might fail on the first pothole.

[Dot]

Hi and welcome Freechange, the "boys" will be along shortly with some answers for you.

[T1 Terry]

Add the Haier to the list http://www.appliancesonline.com.au/224l ... vQodGZsAyA All proven performers, size is the only difference except for the Samsung Inverter model, I think it runs on just the thought of electricity The 300w PSW inverter will most definitely run one of them, but the others...... it's the start up current that is the killer, safer to go for a 500w or 600w inverter just to be sure, pure sine wave of course, I didn't know why anyone would bother with a modified sine wave these days.... except for the 150w unit to power the electric blanket
As for the lithium, how long have you got before you are looking at the battery fit up? You need 12 mths if you want to learn enough to fit it up yourself, hat seems to be about the average, but that can be fast tracked with the assistance of an experienced lithium person assisting you if you don't have the 12mths to spare. Sounds like a sales pitch, but in all seriousness, the learning curve is near vertical as all you thought you knew needs to be forgotten and a whole new set of rules learnt, 12mths is the average, really

T1 Terry

[freechange]

The Samsung is out. Hinged on right only, need left. Bugger as it uses the DC inverter tech. Would've liked to use the Victron PS 300w $200 inverter and have a 2nd one run as a backup as the house inverter.
Victron has a PS 700w for $500 but more painful on the hip pocket if it fails.
The Haier looks OK but yes will need the bigger inverter.

Timeline is less than 6 months but I'm a fast learner and already accept Lithiums are the way to go. It's one reason I'm trying to keep other costs down (e.g, no 12v fridge) so the budget can include it.
From a very quick look I think I'm up for about $2500 for a 200AH Fusion Lithium with internal BMS. Maybe border line size for the power needs depending on what these 240v fridges use. If fridge uses say 90AHs and house 40AHs that's about 65% DOD. Prefer to up the solar (960 watts is possible) then increase AH capacity.

[BruceS]

I don't think that battery is LiFePo4? The individual cell voltages indicate it's AGM?
I know it says lithium on the side of it but ............
Terry will not like your choice....... I'm sure!!

[dapope]

200ah lithium will be cheaper if you buy individual cells 8 x 100ah. EV works in WA, or theres a place called Basically Natural who offer a better service for our needs, in that they will strap the pack etc as well as pre balance I believe. Solar, lots of solar for these batteries!

[freechange]

Fusion website says prismatic LiFePo4. 200AH / 26.3 kg
The Winstons are about $1350 for 4x200AH.

[freechange]

Are these little 240v fridges pretty quiet? Not a light sleeper but wouldn't like to sleep close to the Westinghouse at home.
And, how much gap do they need left at the sides for venting heat, or is it mainly at the rear?

[T1 Terry]

You need to compare apples with apples. Genuine lithium capacity is @ 0.5CA @ 25*C to 2.85v per cell while still under load. The Fusion mob do their discharge rate @ 0.1CA @ 25*C to 1.80v per cell. They do not show a capacity @ 0.5CA but you can be sure it would not be 200Ah and to discharge to 1.80v is virtually cell murder, so if you wanted to get the 200Ah you can only discharge at 20 amps max and damage the cells every time you do it.
The recharging graph also tells a story if you know how to read it, charge rate is held at 0.5CA (100 amps for a 200Ah battery) till the cell voltage average is approx 3.3v, then the charge rate must be limited to 0.3CA (60 amps for a 200Ah battery) and held at that till approx. 90% charged, then rapidly tapered to put the last 10% in as this is when the cell balancing commences as the cells now are over 3.6v, if the charge rate does not taper off quick enough the cells will over voltage charge and be damaged. The disclaimer line across the bottom says it all
This is the discharge chart for Winston cells

Thundersky WB_LYP200AHA Discharge curve.JPG

As you can see from the chart, a discharge @ 200 amps continuous (1CA) still holds 3v per cell or 12v in a 4 cell battery for the whole 200Ah delivery, at half that rate, 0.5CA more than 200Ah are delivered before the 3v line is crossed. That is the chart you would expect to see for a genuine 200Ah battery, not a capacity measured at 0.1CA, that is the specs for lead acid rubbish, not proper batteries

T1 Terry

[bagmaker]

checkout the "whirlpool" forums, John, for specific fridge feedback

Gargle "whirlpool" + "samsung inverter fridge" for example