240v fridge - Samsung, F&P or Hisense?

[freechange]

Could be noisy if it's not an inverter model and need larger inverter for startup current.

[Newcastle George]

We have a Hisense 220L domestic fridge/freezer running via inverter which replaced our troublesome Waeco. Not only does it perform perfectly but the interior space is more efficient. Sold the Waeco on Ebay and had change after buying the Hisense and an inverter.

George

[Shirley]

Craig we have a Westinghouse fridge at home, only purchased a few mths ago, we find it noisier than our old Kelvinator.

[BernieQ2]

George what are the dimensions of your fridge ?
Thanks .
Bernie .

[bagmaker]

I have a pigeon pair non-invert Hisense in the bus which seem OK but they are side condensing. Not a good idea for a pigeon pair. Mine are under the minimum recommended fitment space but work fine, even in this recent heat. There is space above them which will be evacuated by a solar vent-fan, this will help keep the temperature inside the bus down when they are working hard.

You need to consider the fitment to your own rig, if you have room at the back get a fridge with a rear or bottom condensor, if you have room at the sides get one with side condensor, you can push the fridge right to the back wall. Its quite possible not to know which is which unless they are running or you can find a salesperson in the know. The condensor is the bit that gets hot, it used to be the mesh stuff at the back of a fridge but now its usually inbuilt.

Also, fridges with side condensors would be impossible to add insulation to afterwards.

[T1 Terry]

As all fridges sold as household fridges must pass the Aust Standards test of functioning in 43*C temps by pulling down a loaded fridge and freezer heat soaked to 43*C to 5*C throughout the test load in the fridge and minus 15*C throughout the freezer, in 15 hrs, with no additional air movement devices or insulation. These fridges are designed and built to work in Aust conditions, not European cold climates so they need no additional insulation. The 50mm gap required up each side is really about what is required to get the thing in the hole, if you have less than this you might need to put the fridge on a platform to encourage air to enter from the bottom and direct airflow up the sides with a fan to remove the the heated air from the dead air space above the fridge. The surface area on the fridge walls is many times greater than the surface area the old rear condenser coils had so all it needs is air to pass over it to take that heat away.

T1 Terry

[Newcastle George]

Bernie, Here is a link to all the specs. http://www.comparison.com.au/fridges/Hi ... duct_specs. Click on Product Specs.

I have only 15mm either side of the fridge and 0 at top but I have a fan at the rear drawing air past the sides and bottom exciting into the shower recess. The fan is operated via the fridge thermostat, only operating when the fridge is running. When I had the Waeco the shower recess doubled as a drying room but with the Hisense I have lost the drying room as the fan expels almost ambient air.

George

[BernieQ2]

Thanks George .
Bernie .

[Craig]

Thanks for all your comments. I am restricted to space and find that the Westinghouse will fight into the current fridge cavity with little adjustment. The power usage is pretty good but don't know if it is a inverter motor. I go through this same exercise every time the weather climbs into the mid 40's as the three way fridge starts to struggle. It doesn't help that where we are parked up at, the power supply is ordinary to say the least and see the power dropping to 200v regularly.
I would have gone with the Samsung but the height was the killer.

[freechange]

Westinghouse is not an inverter model so will have a high startup current. Any specs on 240v amps? May need a 1500-2000w inverter.
The 228L Samsung is 25mm higher than the Westinghouse.