bagmaker wrote: ↑Mon Feb 05, 2018 12:38 pm
So you reckon the Jaycar ones at 50% would live?
Gonna be 150 amps.......
The tunnel heatsink, 50*C thermostats and 80mm maglev fan from Jay Car will give you enough bits to build the required air cooled heatsink, haven't designed/made a water cooled one yet but if we can't get the relays we want it's a project for the near future.
As for the relays themselves, might as well buy 4 of these https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SSR-100-DD- ... SwPpZZ7-WG and run them in parallel so theoretically they each carry approx. 40 amps. They won't exactly load share equally but as the load on any one of the relays increases the voltage drop the higher it gets and the hotter it gets, they will sort of shift the load around and not cook themselves (with a bit of luck)
What are you planning to set up that will pump out 150 amps? If it is solar you would be better to link the panels in parallel to build 4 separate sets with a max of 40 amps each and wire that to a 40 amp Noark circuit breaker using 6 B&S cable and direct to one of the 4 relays ending up 4 of these systems in total so each relay carries 40 amps of solar. The Dingo 20/20N will control all 4 of these relays so they act as one unit. Not terribly efficient because the relays are so lossey but running each at 40% capacity they shouldn't be too bad.
T1 Terry
A person may fail many times, they only become a failure when they blame someone else John Burrows
Those who struggle to become a leader, rarely know a clear direction forward for anyone but themselves
bagmaker wrote: ↑Mon Feb 05, 2018 12:38 pm
So you reckon the Jaycar ones at 50% would live?
Gonna be 150 amps.......
The tunnel heatsink, 50*C thermostats and 80mm maglev fan from Jay Car will give you enough bits to build the required air cooled heatsink, haven't designed/made a water cooled one yet but if we can't get the relays we want it's a project for the near future.
As for the relays themselves, might as well buy 4 of these https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SSR-100-DD- ... SwPpZZ7-WG and run them in parallel so theoretically they each carry approx. 40 amps. They won't exactly load share equally but as the load on any one of the relays increases the voltage drop the higher it gets and the hotter it gets, they will sort of shift the load around and not cook themselves (with a bit of luck)
What are you planning to set up that will pump out 150 amps? If it is solar you would be better to link the panels in parallel to build 4 separate sets with a max of 40 amps each and wire that to a 40 amp Noark circuit breaker using 6 B&S cable and direct to one of the 4 relays ending up 4 of these systems in total so each relay carries 40 amps of solar. The Dingo 20/20N will control all 4 of these relays so they act as one unit. Not terribly efficient because the relays are so lossey but running each at 40% capacity they shouldn't be too bad.
T1 Terry
I have a tunnel heatsink already to go, with thermofan. Looking forward to thrashing it
Dont think I will do a water cooled one this lap but it would be a good option, watercooled heatsink, watercooled fridge/freezer condensor, watercooled A/C condensor. mmmmmmmmm, drool
Ya up top is headed for 2300w total, around 500w each sets parallel into a cable containing most of the country's copper. This will bring it down into the luggage bay to feed the relays. The Dingo is remote from there, another challenge. I can see why people just plug in a genset.
bagmaker wrote: ↑Mon Feb 05, 2018 12:38 pm
So you reckon the Jaycar ones at 50% would live?
Gonna be 150 amps.......
The tunnel heatsink, 50*C thermostats and 80mm maglev fan from Jay Car will give you enough bits to build the required air cooled heatsink, haven't designed/made a water cooled one yet but if we can't get the relays we want it's a project for the near future.
As for the relays themselves, might as well buy 4 of these https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SSR-100-DD- ... SwPpZZ7-WG and run them in parallel so theoretically they each carry approx. 40 amps. They won't exactly load share equally but as the load on any one of the relays increases the voltage drop the higher it gets and the hotter it gets, they will sort of shift the load around and not cook themselves (with a bit of luck)
What are you planning to set up that will pump out 150 amps? If it is solar you would be better to link the panels in parallel to build 4 separate sets with a max of 40 amps each and wire that to a 40 amp Noark circuit breaker using 6 B&S cable and direct to one of the 4 relays ending up 4 of these systems in total so each relay carries 40 amps of solar. The Dingo 20/20N will control all 4 of these relays so they act as one unit. Not terribly efficient because the relays are so lossey but running each at 40% capacity they shouldn't be too bad.
T1 Terry
I have a tunnel heatsink already to go, with thermofan. Looking forward to thrashing it
Dont think I will do a water cooled one this lap but it would be a good option, watercooled heatsink, watercooled fridge/freezer condensor, watercooled A/C condensor. mmmmmmmmm, drool
Ya up top is headed for 2300w total, around 500w each sets parallel into a cable containing most of the country's copper. This will bring it down into the luggage bay to feed the relays. The Dingo is remote from there, another challenge. I can see why people just plug in a genset.
AHHHHH! Slap me, what have I said!!???
Now you know why people bring their van to Mannum for us to do the install, Riverlander John said if he had realised first off just how much work was involved in just fitting the panels he wouldn't have taken it on .... and that is the easy part compared to wiring them up and the rest of the system.
Just to throw in more problems to be sorted now rather than later, you can't run all the panels into one cable run because you can't get a DC circuit breaker with that sort of current capacity and the combined current is way beyond the maximum fire rating of the 4mm sq solar cable from each panel as this is the lightest cable in the circuit. The circuit breaker/fuse must be rated lower than the fire rating of the smallest cable in the circuit. 4 mm sq cable fire rating is somewhere around 50 amps so the 6 B&S and a NoArk 40 amp DC circuit breaker are an ideal combination, the cable will have less than 2% voltage drop and the circuit breaker will protect the 4 mm sq cable from catching fire if something goes wrong. I learnt that lesson the hard way after the 2.5 mm sq cable from a 50w panel went up in smoke after the dreaded Cockatoo menace chewed through a bit of exposed cable, the output from the 1000w solar array back fed the short even though the fuse had done its job of isolating the battery from the panels. Each combined circuit must potentially develop less current the fire rating on the smallest cable.
T1 Terry
A person may fail many times, they only become a failure when they blame someone else John Burrows
Those who struggle to become a leader, rarely know a clear direction forward for anyone but themselves
hmmm' Was thinking this
4 or 5 panels parrellel into 40a fuse (5 sets of), roughly 450w per set
large cable from fuses to battery area (5m run, 1 b&s 40mm sq cable)
200a fuse on cable then 275a motorised switch into (now muliple) relays, probably from a busbar to split into multple 6 b&S fom the 1b&s.
The motorised switch is high voltage cutoff.
Went towards 1 b&s as I didnt like the 5 runs of 6 b&s all the way to the batteries, some would be in the 10m range. Seemed a bit too much voltage drop. And a LOT of 6 b%s cables. But less failure points I concede.
bagmaker wrote: ↑Wed Feb 07, 2018 12:25 pm
hmmm' Was thinking this
4 or 5 panels parrellel into 40a fuse (5 sets of), roughly 450w per set
large cable from fuses to battery area (5m run, 1 b&s 40mm sq cable)
200a fuse on cable then 275a motorised switch into (now muliple) relays, probably from a busbar to split into multple 6 b&S fom the 1b&s.
The motorised switch is high voltage cutoff.
Went towards 1 b&s as I didnt like the 5 runs of 6 b&s all the way to the batteries, some would be in the 10m range. Seemed a bit too much voltage drop. And a LOT of 6 b%s cables. But less failure points I concede.
If you have 5 runs from the roof to a fuse/circuit breaker then to the SSR, you will need 5 relays. The outputs from the relays can all go into a busbar and the 1 B&S cable from there to the battery. All the negatives must be linked and connected to the load side of the shunt, the 1 B&S cable can be used from the battery side of the shunt to the battery negative terminal.
The reason we use the NoArk circuit breakers is for the convenience of an on/off switch to check output from each group and an easy method of disconnecting the solar when required. Fuses would need to be the Midi Bussmann/Littelfuse type to avoid the melting holder problems caused by poor cable/fuse contact area.
T1 Terry
A person may fail many times, they only become a failure when they blame someone else John Burrows
Those who struggle to become a leader, rarely know a clear direction forward for anyone but themselves
But the 3000 / 5000 watt inverter, way too many amps (fused at 250 amps) to switch that on the 12V side, so thinking about running the 240V side thru another SSR with the control wires fed from low voltage cut off switch above, and leaving the inverter with its in built over 15 V and below 10.5 = auto shut down.
But the 3000 / 5000 watt inverter, way too many amps (fused at 250 amps) to switch that on the 12V side, so thinking about running the 240V side thru another SSR with the control wires fed from low voltage cut off switch above, and leaving the inverter with its in built over 15 V and below 10.5 = auto shut down.
Plus use the Dingo to switch a external alarm if voltage drops below 12v.
None of this addresses the state of charge, monitoring amps and watts going in/out or protects the cells from over voltage or over discharge low voltage if you are not there to hear the alarm scream. Nothing worse than the lights suddenly going out with no warning so a warning alarm system also needs to be incorporated so a change in use can be implemented to avoid the lights out scenario.
The little cell monitor/alarm you posted the link for are a great little unit but a bit heavy on the unmonitored draw required to power them when used long term. We trialled these about 5 yrs ago and from memory they only have a single alarm point and that means 2 would be required to cover the high cell voltage and low cell voltage alarm requirements, so double the losses.
Most people want a battery management system that requires no or very little user input, the system you are proposing has you as the major system controller, who will carry out this function when you are away from the van?
T1 Terry
A person may fail many times, they only become a failure when they blame someone else John Burrows
Those who struggle to become a leader, rarely know a clear direction forward for anyone but themselves
Something you guys don't have in your motorhome, breakaway brakes the pin was accidently pulled when the caravan was in the shed and completely flattened my AGM...never been the same since
Hence concentrating on low voltage cut off at 12 V if I can get away with that.
cruiserxxx wrote: ↑Wed Feb 07, 2018 6:47 pm
Something you guys don't have in your motorhome, breakaway brakes the pin was accidently pulled when the caravan was in the shed and completely flattened my AGM...never been the same since
Hence concentrating on low voltage cut off at 12 V if I can get away with that.