What did you do to your rig today?

[jon_d]

Back to overheating, the first and often most over looked problem is the radiator cap. 1 psi lost can make +5 degrees difference to coolant temp.

Do you mean it has a lower boiling temp or something else?

Mind you I concur with the cap replacement. Once, I was chasing a water leak for ages and finally releasing that the cap was venting and leaking water. New cap and fixed the recovery bottle. No more leaks.

[mottleemob]

Had gas bayonet fitted to van to use our weber q
cheers Phil

[wazzaaaa]

New fridge

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[Busman]

Fitted up a new Weber Baby Q with all the bells and whistles, am quite impressed by it so far, will turf the old BBQ we had in its place.
Bit hard to make it all fit in the bbq bin where the entry steps were but all good now. We have a bayonet fitting in the bull bar to plug into so we are not under any awnings when we cook. I am amazed at some of the sticks and staples machines that put an awning right over the slide out bbq, easy to end up with grease on the awning and a grease skid mark up the side.

[dapope]

Back to overheating, the first and often most over looked problem is the radiator cap. 1 psi lost can make +5 degrees difference to coolant temp.

The first thing I do is to put a new cap on

I have been caught before by not checking that...will look today..

[mottleemob]

Checked wheel bearings before trip to Adelaide. All good
cheers Phil

[T1 Terry]

I think that it will make little difference,I came home monday when in 40+ temps with the engine sitting on 86c, was very happy with that

We spent a bucket on the swagmans cooling system, new radiator, fan, turbo preheat etc etc...its still running quite hot, though if we pull over and idle for a few mins it drops real fast, I suspect the thermostat. Will take back to Natrad who did the work.

I had the tanks removed and the core rodded out on the Hino rad. They found the water part as well as the air flow part blocked. I added two Tefba rad filters, one at the engine thermostat housing and one at the radiator top hose. In the Hino the engine is in the boot and the rad up front. So far I have removed roughly a pill jar full of rust scale from the filters that would normally have blocked the radiator core again after a few hundred miles. The signal the filters need a clean is the temp starts to rise when pushing more than 100km/h for a while. Clean the filters and the problem goes away till next time. If I drive through a town the temp will drop back down again so the problem is lack of water flow through the rad or not enough radiator area. I have to say the litre of 85% concentrate phosphoric acid in the cooling system has done a great job so far in keeping the water clear and I guess it is partly responsible for loosening the rust scale the filters are collecting.
As far as cooling that engine that refuses to run cool, an oil cooler with a fan to move air through does wonders. Just the oil cooler in the water jacket doesn't always help to keep the rad water at a sensible temp, but the added heat dump to air from the oil as well as the water makes a huge difference to the engine running temp.

T1 Terry

[dapope]

I think that it will make little difference,I came home monday when in 40+ temps with the engine sitting on 86c, was very happy with that

We spent a bucket on the swagmans cooling system, new radiator, fan, turbo preheat etc etc...its still running quite hot, though if we pull over and idle for a few mins it drops real fast, I suspect the thermostat. Will take back to Natrad who did the work.

I had the tanks removed and the core rodded out on the Hino rad. They found the water part as well as the air flow part blocked. I added two Tefba rad filters, one at the engine thermostat housing and one at the radiator top hose. In the Hino the engine is in the boot and the rad up front. So far I have removed roughly a pill jar full of rust scale from the filters that would normally have blocked the radiator core again after a few hundred miles. The signal the filters need a clean is the temp starts to rise when pushing more than 100km/h for a while. Clean the filters and the problem goes away till next time. If I drive through a town the temp will drop back down again so the problem is lack of water flow through the rad or not enough radiator area. I have to say the litre of 85% concentrate phosphoric acid in the cooling system has done a great job so far in keeping the water clear and I guess it is partly responsible for loosening the rust scale the filters are collecting.
As far as cooling that engine that refuses to run cool, an oil cooler with a fan to move air through does wonders. Just the oil cooler in the water jacket doesn't always help to keep the rad water at a sensible temp, but the added heat dump to air from the oil as well as the water makes a huge difference to the engine running temp.

T1 Terry

The radiator is new, plasic tanks replaced by custom brass ones, custom turbo preheat, custom rebladed fan etc etc. I dont think the fan is pumping as much air, when hot, but thats purely subjective. I am reluctant to put extra electric fans there in case they impede air flow from the other side.

[T1 Terry]

My radiator would have been as new and blocked if I didn't fit the radiator filters in the top hose. Before Brian bought the Hino the owner said he had the radiator recored and it certainly looked newish when I took it out, but it was well and truly blocked. Anything over 80km/h or more than half throttle had the temp needle in the red zone, now it runs for hrs with the pedal to the metal attempting to out run the B doubles

[T1 Terry]

A four and a half hr return trip from Crystal Brook with a very noisy timing chain in the Prius, we had to drive with the engine not revving too much and that is rather hard with an engine throttle controlled by the computer rather than the accelerator, has forced me to look seriously into either replacing the timing chain and guides or the whole engine with one from the wreckers. With the radiator still out of the Hino and still at the radiator mob we are starting to run short of vehicles, only the Kombi and Mazda still registered and driveable, so it looks like a return to being a mechanic again is in order .... so looking forward to that

Well, finally got the Prius back together, wouldn't go into ready mode. Spent hrs yesterday and half of today Google searching and trying stuff .... Turned out there are two separate operations involved in reconnecting the high voltage battery pack, replace the orange plug and lock the handle ... then ... you push the whole thing down like a big switch. Bingo. Well sort of Bingo, still has a few dramatic looking warning lights on but it drives. The not so good bit is the engine noise is still there, so it wasn't the timing chain.
Now I'll have to find someone with a chassis dyno so I can run the thing under load at better than 60km/h so the engine will run under load. Being a hybrid you can't just start the engine and put it in gear with a foot on the brake, the engine may not actually run and the electric motors know you have the brake applied so they won't load up either .... smart arse cars.
At least we have a vehicle to run home and back in now, well we also have the Kombi so now we each have a vehicle to drive home and back