Yep, thanx again, I understand what you mean.
It was mainly to assure myself that the relay would do the job of using a 24v trigger to activate a 12v circuit.
Will see how it goes.
V8's are on this weekend so it will have to wait till next week..
Go Scotty.
Cheers,
12v steps in a 24v bus
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Re: 12v steps in a 24v bus
Not quite sure after reading through the replies that it was explain correctly, if it was then just ignore my bit and sorry if I've upset anyone.
The relay needs to be 24v. The 24v positive wire from the ignition switch goes to the 86 terminal. Terminal 85 goes to battery negative via the wiring already available, don't rely on a connection to the metal body only as this often causes problems with a poor connection after bouncing up the road for a while. The 30 terminal goes to the positive 12v supply and the 87 terminal goes to the 12v ignition sensing wire for the step.
When 24v is applied to the 86 terminal a copper wound coil between terminal 86 and 85 will be powered up creating an electro-magnet. This will pull the plate above the coil down and connect the 30 terminal to the 87 terminal allowing 12v positive to flow through to the ignition signal wire to the step control causing the step control to retract the steps and not allow them to be deployed while the relay is powered from the ignition switch and there is a 12v positive supply to terminal 30 and the cabling is still good between terminal 87 and the ignition sensing wire for the step control.
Fit the fuse for the ignition 24v positive close to the ignition switch or use an already fused circuit, fit the 12v fuse close to the 12v supply before the relay ..... and remember where those fuses are so you can check them when the step stops working
T1 Terry
The relay needs to be 24v. The 24v positive wire from the ignition switch goes to the 86 terminal. Terminal 85 goes to battery negative via the wiring already available, don't rely on a connection to the metal body only as this often causes problems with a poor connection after bouncing up the road for a while. The 30 terminal goes to the positive 12v supply and the 87 terminal goes to the 12v ignition sensing wire for the step.
When 24v is applied to the 86 terminal a copper wound coil between terminal 86 and 85 will be powered up creating an electro-magnet. This will pull the plate above the coil down and connect the 30 terminal to the 87 terminal allowing 12v positive to flow through to the ignition signal wire to the step control causing the step control to retract the steps and not allow them to be deployed while the relay is powered from the ignition switch and there is a 12v positive supply to terminal 30 and the cabling is still good between terminal 87 and the ignition sensing wire for the step control.
Fit the fuse for the ignition 24v positive close to the ignition switch or use an already fused circuit, fit the 12v fuse close to the 12v supply before the relay ..... and remember where those fuses are so you can check them when the step stops working

T1 Terry
A person may fail many times, they only become a failure when they blame someone else John Burrows
Those who struggle to become a leader, rarely know a clear direction forward for anyone but themselves
Those who struggle to become a leader, rarely know a clear direction forward for anyone but themselves
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Re: 12v steps in a 24v bus
Thanx Terry, and all others that got me on the right track.
Steps are in and wired up, working fine so far.
I haven't completed the last step though, that of connecting the ignition wire, but it's run to the right area.
I have so much wiring to do under the dash that I reckon it can wait till I get the lot sorted.
The relay is in and wired though.
The steps retract when the door closes, and the override switch works.
A small pic of some of the wiring done. If anyone is interested you can find my pics of the install (so far) on Photobucket.
http://s1036.photobucket.com/user/Bugga ... 900&page=1
(they don't seem to want to show up in order though..
)
Cheers,
Steps are in and wired up, working fine so far.
I haven't completed the last step though, that of connecting the ignition wire, but it's run to the right area.
I have so much wiring to do under the dash that I reckon it can wait till I get the lot sorted.
The relay is in and wired though.
The steps retract when the door closes, and the override switch works.
A small pic of some of the wiring done. If anyone is interested you can find my pics of the install (so far) on Photobucket.
http://s1036.photobucket.com/user/Bugga ... 900&page=1
(they don't seem to want to show up in order though..


Cheers,
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Bernie B
I plan to stop procrastinating tomorrow.
I plan to stop procrastinating tomorrow.
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Re: 12v steps in a 24v bus
Bernie,
looks nice. Well done.
Have a look at these; it might give a bit more protection on the lead to the small fused distribution panel.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/10PCS-Black ... 3842888785?
looks nice. Well done.
Have a look at these; it might give a bit more protection on the lead to the small fused distribution panel.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/10PCS-Black ... 3842888785?
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Re: 12v steps in a 24v bus
Now that is a good idea, thanx again Jon.
Just bought a label maker too, might help the head scratches later on.
Just bought a label maker too, might help the head scratches later on.

Bernie B
I plan to stop procrastinating tomorrow.
I plan to stop procrastinating tomorrow.
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Re: 12v steps in a 24v bus
Really good job but might be a good idea to put a grommet in the hole through the metal. Even split garden hose!



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BruceS
Mannum, SA
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BruceS
Mannum, SA
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Re: 12v steps in a 24v bus
Thanx Bruce, the hole in the floor is timber, not metal, and I will fill it with Sika the next time I have the gun out (probably wont be long knowing my propensity [wow big word] to use the stuff)
All the wiring underneath is in convoluted tubing and any sharp edges that comes into contact with is further protected with some clear tubing (left over water filler tube) and cable tied, so all should be good. I'm not a fan of electrical shorts and the likely outcomes either.
Cheers.
All the wiring underneath is in convoluted tubing and any sharp edges that comes into contact with is further protected with some clear tubing (left over water filler tube) and cable tied, so all should be good. I'm not a fan of electrical shorts and the likely outcomes either.
Cheers.
Bernie B
I plan to stop procrastinating tomorrow.
I plan to stop procrastinating tomorrow.