New Solar Controller

[shonky]

Hi, all.

So after using a controller which wasn't really up to charging 4 AGM's and handling the compressor fridge we, at great expense, purchased a PL40 with shunt. Now we did buy this item in haste, and, candidly, it's much more than we need, but it does the job quite well, especially if you need to know the maximum charging voltage on any particular day in the past three weeks. Must mention I've called their technical bloke three days in a row with a list of questions, but I'm getting used to the gadget. Also we ran 6B&S from the solar to the batteries, which added a volt over the original installation.
Now for the interesting bit.
Power comes from the solar panels, naturally.
It also comes from the genset via what I call a "dumb" 40amp charger and throughout the shunt on the PL40. Granted the "dumb" charger only supplies 30amps, but with the solar as well I'm happy.
Now I have what I call a 20amp "workshop" charger. Totally useless when camping because of the noise, and doesn't like solar, but it's technically smart as one can set charging rates and battery type. BUT when the $400 evilbay genset is running who cares about a little bit of noise.
My estimate is around 45 to 55amps coming in altogether.

Note the technical bloke at PL raised his eyebrows when the concept was aired but he acknowledged that no harm would be caused, and the AGM's - 4*125amp - went from "oh dear" to float in four hours flat.No, I don't mean flat I mean float.....

[dapope]

Dam good controllers. They peak at a smidge over the 40, but do run a bit warm if you work them near the max

[shonky]

Hi, all.

For the curious, the PL40 registered 120amps input yesterday. The smart charger supplied another 80.

[dapope]

Some of that produced amps wont make it to the battery, will be gone running fridges etc during the day. I like to check the difference between current out of the solar on the pl60and pl40 and amps in on the victron. As of the end of next week, this will be a full time obsession for me.

[T1 Terry]

When in the instant amps in or amps out screen, press the button for a long press, this will split what is coming via solar through the PL40 as INT and what is coming via the shunt as EXT you can do the same in Ah in and Ah out windows. By setting the clock to read 24hrs at 6pm you can see just how much came in to the system from solar and how much went into the batteries from external chargers through the shunt. Be care not to connect the battery neg that goes to the PL40 to the shunt, it must go to the battery, otherwise the solar will be counted twice.

Once you get a feel for the PL40 you can explore al the other things it can do, they are truly amazing gadgets for the $$.

[shonky]

Hi, all.

Quick questions about setting up the PL40
1/ Is it necessary to set the charging voltage to 14.4 or more to give the AGMs the correct charge? I note that Program 1 only goes to 14.2 although with Program 4 this can be adjusted.
2/ The PLS2 does not record any load less than 10amps. For example my inverter will only show load if I’m using a power drill for example - 12 to 15amps. The compressor fridge, connected directly to the shunt, apparently uses nothing, whereas the draw should be around 4 to 5amps. The 40amp dumb charger shows a load of 30amps, which is obviously regulated by the PL40.

I'm starting to think this item would be more suited to a larger vehicle...

[T1 Terry]

The shunt will send information to the PL40 about charge moving in or out of the battery, that is all. If the solar coming in is being used by the fridge or inverter and is enough that more does not need to be drawn from the battery, then the load will show as zero, that means these appliances are not drawing power from the battery, they must be supplied from some where else and my guess is it's from the solar.
Yes, you need to reprogram the PL40 via program 4 to get the best charging results from you solar,
My recommended settings for AGM batteries
BMAX - 14.4v
EMAX - 14.6v
ETIM - 0.6h
EFREQ - 30 days
ASBV - 14.0v
ATIM - 4.0h
FLT - 13.8v
HYST - 0.2v
BRTN - 13v
CHRG - 40a
BFRQ - 1day
TCMP - this is only used if you have a temp sensor fitted to read battery temp

[T1 Terry]

Hi, all.

Quick questions about setting up the PL40
1/ Is it necessary to set the charging voltage to 14.4 or more to give the AGMs the correct charge? I note that Program 1 only goes to 14.2 although with Program 4 this can be adjusted.
2/ The PLS2 does not record any load less than 10amps. For example my inverter will only show load if I’m using a power drill for example - 12 to 15amps. The compressor fridge, connected directly to the shunt, apparently uses nothing, whereas the draw should be around 4 to 5amps. The 40amp dumb charger shows a load of 30amps, which is obviously regulated by the PL40.

I'm starting to think this item would be more suited to a larger vehicle...

UMM...... I just reread this last bit, "The 40amp dumb charger shows a load of 30amps" is it possible you have the shunt wired back to front, the charger should show the battery being charged at 30 amps, not a load of 30 amps

[Boblebago]

Hi Shonky
My PL40 shows a load of .2 amps with the 2400 watt inverter on standby and .6 amps with the 300 watt inverter is on standby.
Regards Geoff

[shonky]

Hi, all.

T.I.Terry - the shunt was wired back to front, and yes, I should have written 30amps charge.
I'm hoping that charging via the Projecta when possible will give the batteries a good 14.4amp rev, and the PL40 will be updated to Program 4 when time permits. Has anyone had 14.4 on their controller using solar only?