Solar
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Re: Solar
Wayne, do you have the Victron BMV manual? If so, turn to page 20 and zero the current display as per item 09. Zero Current Calibration.
George
George
George, Julie, Leonie & Sean - Kotara, Newcastle
DIY 11.5M 1979 Bedford, Nissan/UD FE6T motor
DIY 11.5M 1979 Bedford, Nissan/UD FE6T motor
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Re: Solar
Yes have read it got into setup and section 9 found zero now that it has re set it self the amps show 000 bright sunny day thought there mite have been some amps coming in 
Coolabah1au
Wayne nini
Wayne nini
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Re: Solar
Ummm.... if it wasn't stuffed up before, it certainly is now
You can only zero the current flow if you definitely know the current flow is zero. If it was charging then that charging current will now be set as the zero base line and any charging current less than that will be seen as a minus. The same thing if current was being drawn from the battery, that draw will now be the base line and any draw less than that will be seen as charging current.
To zero a Victron BMV, first you need to disconnect every lead from the load side of the shunt. Next make sure the only cable on the battery side of the shunt is the cable that goes to the battery negative, no other cables should be connected on this battery side, they all belong on the load side.
So, now you have the battery negative lead going to the shunt battery side, check what the current reads in amps and watts, if it isn't zero, then you need to follow the instruction and reset the zero calibration for the shunt.
Now you can connect the negative cable to the load side of the shunt including any from the solar regulator and the mains charger. If you ever put a separate charger on the battery, this is the spot you connect the alligator clip, not the battery, the Victron BMV needs to know everything that goes out of the battery and everything that goes in, so the shunt can not be bypassed.
T1 Terry

To zero a Victron BMV, first you need to disconnect every lead from the load side of the shunt. Next make sure the only cable on the battery side of the shunt is the cable that goes to the battery negative, no other cables should be connected on this battery side, they all belong on the load side.
So, now you have the battery negative lead going to the shunt battery side, check what the current reads in amps and watts, if it isn't zero, then you need to follow the instruction and reset the zero calibration for the shunt.
Now you can connect the negative cable to the load side of the shunt including any from the solar regulator and the mains charger. If you ever put a separate charger on the battery, this is the spot you connect the alligator clip, not the battery, the Victron BMV needs to know everything that goes out of the battery and everything that goes in, so the shunt can not be bypassed.
T1 Terry
A person may fail many times, they only become a failure when they blame someone else John Burrows
Those who struggle to become a leader, rarely know a clear direction forward for anyone but themselves
Those who struggle to become a leader, rarely know a clear direction forward for anyone but themselves
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Re: Solar
Maybe a photo Wayne of the Victron BMV and the shunt when the reading is zero and when it is between 30 and 32 amps, just so we fully understand the situation as far as which leads are off and if the reading is 32 amps or minus 32 amps with the leads off because that sounds like the BMV is seriously out of wackMrcoolabah1au wrote: โFri Apr 24, 2020 11:58 am Ok the readings for this is between 30 and 32 amp with the leads offput them back on comes up 000 again
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T1 Terry
A person may fail many times, they only become a failure when they blame someone else John Burrows
Those who struggle to become a leader, rarely know a clear direction forward for anyone but themselves
Those who struggle to become a leader, rarely know a clear direction forward for anyone but themselves