Bus bar

[Mrcoolabah1au]

Or what ever you call them were would you find them and the write description is it brass or copper

[Jon and Kay]

https://www.jaycar.com.au/16-way-100a-b ... r/p/SZ2004
Like this??

[native pepper]

eBay has many buzz bars made of different materials and quality, as to which is best have no idea but personally I try to stick with brass, but do have a couple of steel ones hanging around.

[Noggins]

https://www.jaycar.com.au/16-way-100a-b ... r/p/SZ2004
Like this??

I have used them a few times, fitted them into a plastic box from the same place, just drilled individual holes in the side for the cabling to go into the busbar.
Then I had one of these mounted on the end of the box for main power in.
Similar to this one , but from Jaycar.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ANL-FUSE-HO ... Sw6qpa3mdz
Sorry, no pictures of the install.

Ron

[pet-els]

I thought it was where Jon kept his beer in the bus.

PeterH

[T1 Terry]

Neutral links are a lot easier to work with, come in different number holes along with different size holes to accept different size cables, then a plastic lid to cover up the live parts. They are even available with red or black covers, so polarity is easy to see at a glance.
Always use clean brass bus bars, copper is too soft and deforms when the cable bootlace crimps are clamped down using the screws, aluminium has a higher resistance and steel (including stainless steel) yet a higher resistance again (less carbon). You can use a piece of copper with a bolt through it each end to clamp a cable lug to it, but make sure it is clean with no oxidisation. Because brass is more resistant to oxidisation (but it still does happen) brass is the better choice.
Never use a stainless bolt as a link through a wall with the cables clamped at each end, the voltage drop is high and a high current draw will cause the bolt to get so hot it will start to burn any wood work or blister paint. Bolts used as cable joiners actually clamp the two cable lugs together and the current passes through the lugs, not the bolt itself.
We often find a flat washer accidentally (or otherwise) left between a cable lug and the brass block it was supposed to be clamped against, or between the layers of multiple stacked cables at a junction point. The cables always show signs of over heating with the insulation melted/burnt and the copper cable oxidised. You can't just wrap tape over the melted bit, the oxidised copper has a far higher resistance than clean fresh copper, so the problem just keeps getting worse till a failure occurs, either the cable falls off with a shower of sparks, or the joint actually starts a fire, never a good thing .... this is the area most voltage drop problems occur, the touch test quickly shows if you have a problem, get someone else to do the touching if you think it might be hot

T1 Terry

[Mrcoolabah1au]

2AA16FE1-AE05-4F8A-A686-DBB3C9EB0AAB.jpeg

Looking for a second one like this for a mate to build his system

[T1 Terry]

2AA16FE1-AE05-4F8A-A686-DBB3C9EB0AAB.jpeg
Looking for a second one like this for a mate to build his system

The last lot I bought was listed on evilbay, try searching for earth/neutral block brass and see what you can find. You could also try Google

T1 Terry